Table of Contents
ELO Touch Screen Repair / Refurb
This is a page for refurbishing ELO Touchscreen Monitors. This is mostly for me to jot stuff down. If it helps you, great! Use at your own risk!
Back light
The older power supply board 12V to inverter pinout.
Red - 12V Yellow - On/Off Green - Bri Brown - GND Black - GND
Style 1
Style 2 (Newer?)
The default inverter pinout
1 - Red (12V) 2 - Black (GND) 3 - Green (Bri) 4 - Brown (GND) 5 - Yellow (On/Off)
5-Pin Newer
Black - 12V (I know!!!) Brown - GND Yellow - Bri Red - GND (I know!!!) Orange - On/Off
To convert to Ebay driver board (JIAHE), you need to move to a 6-pin connector (it came with it). If driving for a 15“ monitor, I'd remove one of the current sense resistors, to slightly dim the display, as the drive current is a bit high! For JIAHE, resistor R7/R8 are right next to each other. They are labeled R680 (0.68 ohms each).
Input -> Board -> LEDs Out Top 1 - VCC 2 - VCC 3 - On/Off? 4 - ADJ 5 - GND 6 - GND
The actual back light in the LCD is a pain to replace. It involves complete disassembly of the LCD frame to get to. You might be lucky to pull out the old CCFL bulbs without them breaking, but a full teardown it best. I'll take some pics at some point. Just go slow, carefully pry clips apart, and carefully cut mounting tape. Use some compressed air to blow out dust during re-assembly. Cut the LED strip 3 LEDs short of the 15” mark. The 15“ mark is a tight fit, and 3 LEDs short doesn't cause noticeable edge dimming.
Video Driver
If you notice unstable video (lines / snow / flickers / drop outs / etc), it might need some work. It might be worth replacing the parts just because, because it will help to not have to come back later…
The 100uF capacitors on the video board tend to go out. I haven't isolated the culprits, so I replace them all. There is also a smaller one, which I usually replace, too, as it looks discolored most of the time. I think the 3.3V regulator run near its power capacity, and really heats things up.
To get the board out, WITHOUT breaking the nut screws, use a heat gun to warm the back of the metal frame / around the nuts. Let the heat warm the glue, and slowly work them out. It's like thread locker red… I have broken too many before I figured this out…
Main Power Supply
On the main power supply board, several of the capacitors can / do go out.
If you hear ticking, then the large 120uF / 400V HV cap may have blown. You can usually see it swollen / leaking. Replace with something similar (400V or better).
Ticking may also be the two 2200uF capacitors, or just failure to turn on at all. These filter the 12V right off the rectifier from the transformer. They likely take a beating. They may be swollen, or just discolored. I almost always swap them.
Then there are the other smaller capacitors. They may look swollen. Heck, I usually replace all of the capacitors I've highlighted. I've seem them each blown on various boards. Save time trouble shooting and just hit them all. I also swap the double diode rectifier on the heat sink. I don't know if it is likely to go out, but I've seen it bad once, and it is cheap to replace.